By Syed Zainulabedin, TwoCircles.net,
Hyderabad: Hyderabad, known for its heavy breakfast( Zabardast Nashta) with” Nihari- Kulcham, Khichidi – Keema, Anda – Pratha or Salan” is now witnessing a big change in its food style with the growth of “Tiffin Centers” in twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad.
Until a decade ago, there were very few famous chain restaurants only like Taj Mahal and Kamat serving ‘southern’ food. Now every locality, and even localities with thick Muslim population in the old city, has 3 to 4 tiffin centers serving Idli, Dosa, Uttapam, Wada and Puri, besides a number of road side vendors on all important points.
The picking up of this tiffin (light meal) culture is attributed to the changing life style of the people in city, which was generally known to wake up late. These days almost everyone is working or is busy somehow. There shortage of time in many families; both husband and wife may be working and have to get their children ready for school. So if they skip cooking during morning time it relieves a lot of pressure on them.
In recent times, number of school or college going children and job going people has susbtantially increased in every household. Roughly, 5 out of every 10 families these days prefer tiffin centers food on regular basis. Even on Sundays and public holidays this southern food have become part of their food habit, as most families consider Sunday and a public holiday, a leisure day for them.
“Aur Kiya Karna” (what should we do) Razia Begum, a neighborhood lady asked when confronted. “My husband leaves home early morning for work. I have three children, one in college doing Intermediate and two in High School. They all have different timings and instead of cooking three different timings it’s easy for me to get this food for them or give them some cash and tell them to eat or get food from the tiffin center on the way to school or college,” she added.
The prices of these vegetarian foods are also attractive, a plate of 4 Idlis is between Rs 12 and 14, Plain Dosa Rs.14, Masala Dosa for Rs.14-16 and a plate of 3 to 4 big, Puris is ranging between Rs.14-18 depending on the size. The prices are even cheaper at road side vendors. Both Tiffin centers and vendors are doing great business during the peak time 7-11 AM.
More ever we find these road side vendors on all major intersections in the city, doing brisk business during even late nights when all eateries are closed. Most of the people, who work in night shifts in multinational companies or at call centers don’t have any option, but to make beeline at these push cart vendors as city police forcibly shut down all eateries after 11 PM. Although few Mughlai and Irani hotels in the city opens and allow diners from the back or side door but food served there is considered to be heavy and too spicy for late night.
The business at a tiffin center in Chanchalguda, a Muslim dominated locality on any working day runs between Rs.5000 and 8000 and on Sundays Rs.10000-12000. Similarly street vendors are doing business of Rs.2000 to 5000 every day. The profit margin is good in this business, says Ahmed Ali, another tiffin center’s proprietor, but it consumes lot of time and labor. Our days start at 2 AM as we need to prepare mixing ingredients and get ready everything by 5.30 in the morning at the most. The shortage of Idli -Dosa makers in the city is another big problem these tiffin centers are facing.
He said most Karigars (experts) are from Karnataka and Odisha, and they charge Rs. 300 and Rs 500 for just five hours work of preparing and mixing masalas. Besides we have to hire two or three more people for the kitchen. Another caterer who only revealed his last name Syed, complained about the hike on LPG prices and said a commercial cylinder costs between Rs,1400 and 1600 now that taking a big chunk from our profit. He said small tiffin homes are closing their business due to this reason.
Replying to a question, another proprietor of a Tiffin center at Kothi, Rajeshwar Rao refuted the allegation that the tiffin culture is leading to a bigger health issue. He said in fact southern food is healthy, freshly cooked and easily digestible. Many working class people prefer this food for breakfast and lunch. They have big dinner at homes, he added.
Making his point he went ahead and said that southern food is not new to Hyderabad, being the capital of a southern state Andhra Pradesh. Even people in North Indian cities are increasingly making this food as their first choice in breakfast and lunch. “Just go to the canteen at Andhra Pradesh Bhavan on Ashoka Road In New Delhi, you would find more northerners now tasting south Indian food,” Rao added.