Aradhana Pandey, TwoCircles.net
Varanasi: Dalmandi, the heart of Varanasi, a place rich with cultural diversity and historical significance, is now on the brink of a “transformative” change that threatens not only its geographical landscape but also the livelihood and identity of thousands of families. Once known as the “Singapore of Purvanchal”, this market is facing a crisis. Here, largely Muslim traders conduct business worth crores every day, and the lanes are filled with centuries-old traditions. But today, they are overshadowed by the looming threat of bulldozers.
With over 10,000 shops, Dalmandi is at risk as part of the government’s plan to widen streets in the name of connecting the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor. Narrow lanes, some only 8 feet wide, are set to be expanded to 23 feet – displacing traders who depend on these spaces for their livelihoods. The new plan is seen as a direct threat to the very existence of this historic market.
The Pain of Generations
Jeelat Watch, a 129-year-old shop, serves the entire region with timepieces. Zia Kazim, the fourth-generation owner, says, “This market is not just our employment; it is our identity. If the shops are demolished, we will be left unemployed. There is no place to go.”
For him and countless others, the prospect of losing their businesses is more than financial devastation — it is an erasure of cultural heritage that has shaped their lives for generations.
“Dalmandi’s streets tell the story of our ancestors,” he says. “The street is full of memories and traditions are being wiped away for a road. We are not just fighting for shops; we are fighting for our very existence.”
A Crisis of Culture, Livelihood
The government’s promise of development and improved traffic infrastructure rings hollow to many traders who question the cost of this “so-called” progress. “Will this development not come at the expense of our humanity and heritage?” they ask. The market’s vibrant energy, which once pulsed with life during every festival — whether it was Diwali firecrackers, Eid clothes or Makar Sankranti kites — now seems destined for silence.
Veteran jeweller Zulfikar Alam, who has been in business since 1924, shares the pain of his fellow traders, “We have spent three generations here. If this road widening happens, it will wipe out everything — our market, our livelihood, our history.”
Dalmandi, a place where thousands of families have worked, lived and thrived, is now under the shadow of development that many see as “destruction”. For merchants like Mohammad Taj, who has run a textile shop since 1965, the loss is personal. “This is not just about losing a shop,” he says. “It is about losing our entire way of life.”
A Glorious Past at Risk
Dalmandi is more than just a market — it is a cultural treasure, woven into the very fabric of Varanasi’s history. In the past, it was a center for music and art, frequented by legendary figures like Ustad Bismillah Khan. The streets of Dalmandi echoed with the sounds of Shehnai and classical dance, a hub for both cultural expression and commerce.
However, as the cultural significance of the area fades into the background, the people of Dalmandi fear their future is being erased alongside it. “Dalmandi, the heartbeat of Banaras, will lose its soul if the government’s plan proceeds,” says Athar Siddiqui, a 78-year-old watch shop owner. “The true essence of this place is its cultural diversity, and that will be lost in the rush for ‘progress’.”
A Struggle for Survival, Heritage
The traders of Dalmandi are not just fighting for business — they are fighting to preserve the soul of Varanasi. The rich history of Dalmandi, which once nurtured the music of Shehnai and the patriotism of courtesans during the freedom struggle, is at risk of fading into oblivion. It is a place where religion, commerce, art and freedom intertwined, and its demise would mark the loss of an irreplaceable piece of India’s cultural heritage.
Councilor Indresh Kumar, however, defends the plan. He argues that widening the street will improve emergency services and reduce traffic congestion, especially for the millions of pilgrims visiting Kashi Vishwanath. “The development is necessary to accommodate the growing influx of tourists,” he says, suggesting that the transformation would bring better facilities to the densely populated area.
Development or Destruction?
While there is a need for better infrastructure, the question remains: at what cost does this development come? The traders of Dalmandi want progress but not at the cost of their heritage and livelihoods. Some have proposed an underground market, akin to the ones in Delhi, where businesses could be relocated while preserving the market’s cultural essence. But such solutions remain out of reach.
As this historic market faces its most significant challenge yet, the people of Dalmandi are left wondering: will Kashi’s new dawn be a bright one for its traders or will it mark the beginning of a long, dark night for thousands of families who call this place home?
It is a struggle to balance progress with respect for the traditions that have shaped this sacred city for centuries. As the bulldozers approach, the heart of Varanasi beats on — will it survive the storm of development, or will it be lost forever?