Aradhna Pandey, TwoCircles.net
Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh): The needles of Zardozi once wove miracles in the alleys of Varanasi. The craftsmanship that emerged from golden and silver threads adorned royal garments, religious attire and regal artifacts for centuries. However, today, those needles have come to a halt, the grip of the fingers loosening and an unspoken restlessness lingers in the artisans’ eyes. The Muslim artisans, who have cherished this craft for generations, now face uncertainty about their future. This is not merely a slowdown in business; it signals an existential crisis looming over an entire heritage.
Varanasi, a city renowned worldwide for its art, culture and traditions, holds stories of history in every corner and every street. Among these stories is a significant chapter — the art of Zardozi, which was once a pride for the holy city. But due to the passage of time and alleged government neglect, this heritage is now fading away.
Once upon a time, thousands of Muslim artisans in Varanasi dedicated their entire lives to the intricate work. The creations they made were admired across the globe. Today, however, these artisans are fading into obscurity. Only a few dozen families remain connected to this ancestral craft.
The changing times
Traveling through the narrow, rugged streets of the Machodari area, we arrived at Chhittanpura, home to the artisans of Zardozi. As we knocked on the door of a workshop, every face there bore the mark of struggle. There, we met Mahboob Ansari, who has been creating Zardozi badges and various other artistic items for years. “I have been working in this sector for decades. Varanasi has this traditional business since 1943. My grandfather and ancestors kept this art alive, but now, with mechanisation, this trade is slowly coming to an end. The new generation is not interested in this craft because of hard work and low returns. As a result, the number of artisans is dwindling,” he says.
He goes on to say that over time, every art form tried to adapt to the modern age, but Zardozi has weakened under the blows of time. “If we do not take solid steps to preserve this art, the day is not far when it will only be a story to read in books or heard in tales. The fact is, this art survives solely due to the efforts of Muslim artisans. If this community withdraws, it will cease to exist,” he cautions.
Heshamuddin Ansari, a renowned Zardozi artisan from Chhittanpura, exports Zardozi products overseas. He says, “We have been in the business of making Zardozi badges for decades. Our firm exports handmade Zardozi products. This is a family tradition, and we create badges and visors for the police, the Army, the Navy and the Air Force.”
He sends products to several countries, including the United Kingdom, the United States, China, Hong Kong and Russia. “We have also done embroidery for Russia’s military uniforms and badges. Our art has found a place in the fashion industry as well. We have worked on jackets, blazers and jeans for major companies like Dolson and Polo. Although the pandemic affected our work, we are still fulfilling orders.”
Heshamuddin further adds that this industry used to be much larger, and they were the main producers with substantial orders. But now competition has increased, and new companies are producing goods at cheaper prices, which has impacted our work. “About 40 families in Varanasi are still connected to this business. It is a home-based industry where both men and women work together. It is a family-driven industry, but the new generation is less interested because the work is hard and the earnings are limited,” he says.
“There is no special support from the government, which could motivate artisans. The process of making badges is also complex. Zari comes from Surat and Delhi. After passing through various processes, the badges are made. Silver, gold and other metals are used to make both fine and coarse Zari. Today, China is producing it using machines, while we do intricate handmade embroidery. There is a world of difference between machine-made and handmade badges. Even though China does Zardozi with machines, they send their orders to us for handmade Zardozi work.”
The ‘indifference’
Heshamuddin further adds, “We have many artisans working with us who have been in this business for years. Their livelihoods depend on it, and we are continuously striving to preserve this art. However, this trade will not completely die out. It is a traditional craft, and there will always be a market for it. We continue to export to Gulf countries, the US and the UK, and there is still demand in China. Therefore, we are making efforts to keep it alive.”
Even in the narrow lanes of Pathani Tola, Zardozi work is still carried out. Conversations with the artisans here revealed that rising prices, low wages and government “neglect” are slowly killing this craft. An elderly artisan, Izhaar, living in these lanes, says with frustration, “We learned this skill as children, how to beautify silk with needles and threads, but the younger generation does not want to carry it forward because there is no profit.”
He adds, “The younger generation does not want to join because of the poor earning. Those who once mastered Zardozi are now driving rickshaws, opening tea stalls or have moved to other cities to work as daily wagers. There used to be more than 2,500 artisans, but now there are barely 50-60 left.”
Mohammad Saqir, a Zardozi artisan, says, “We have been doing this work since childhood, but now it is becoming difficult to sustain our families. Earlier, the costs would be covered, but now the profits are so low that we cannot even afford to send our children to school.”
The government’s alleged indifference has only deepened the artisans’ pain. There used to be government assistance for this craft, but it has reportedly disappeared. The industry allegedly receives no subsidies or support, leaving the artisans disheartened.
The traders say they used to get significant work orders for their art abroad. However, due to wars and economic instability, even those orders have decreased. The demand still exists, but the number of artisans has dwindled. New artisans are not being trained, and the old ones are either aging or have been forced to take up other work.
Why is the artform dying?
Varanasi is famous for its traditional silk saris and Zardozi work. Though the tradition of Zardozi is not native to Varanasi, over time, artisans here adopted it, and it can now be seen on Banarasi saris, suits, dress materials, curtains and cushion covers.
Zardozi work requires patience and fine craftsmanship, and is typically learned at a young age. This is why both children and women are involved in the profession. Most of the artisans practicing this craft belong to the Muslim community, and it is passed down from generation to generation. In this embroidery work, the role of the ‘Karachop’ is significant, as it helps straighten the threads and ease the weaving process.
Social activist and researcher of Banarasi Zardozi, Pragya Singh, says, “Earlier, zari was made from pure gold and silver. When the saree would get old, it could be burned to retrieve the precious metal. But in 1977, when the price of silver shot up, using real zari became very expensive. This led to an increase in the price of Banarasi sarees, and sales started to drop.”
She adds when it seemed that real zari might completely vanish, around 1988-89, Indian aristocrats and some foreign clients expressed interest in using real zari in Banarasi sarees. A few select families, still skilled in making real gold and silver zari, fulfilled this demand. Even today, some weavers use real zari for special orders. Although it is limited, this tradition is still alive.
According to a 2007 survey, there were about 5,255 small and large handloom units in Varanasi, involved in producing items like saree brocade, Zardozi, zari metal, pink Meenakari, Kundankari, jewelry, stone cutting, glass painting, beads, carpets, wall hangings and crown work. Around 20 lakh people were employed in these industries, generating about Rs 7,500 crores in business.
Out of these, approximately 2,300 units have completely shut down, and the remaining ones are on the verge of closure. Along with these, the hand-crafted Zardozi art created by Varanasi’s Muslim artisans is also fading into the pages of history.
Idrees Ansari of the Handloom Artisans Rights Forum says, “Prime Minister Narendra Modi has been the Member of Parliament from Varanasi for years, but it is disheartening to say that he has done nothing for the Zardozi artisans and weavers. Artisans from all over Eastern Uttar Pradesh have been forced to leave this craft and migrate in search of other livelihoods.”
The narrow lanes of Varanasi, once bustling with Zardozi artisans, are now silent. The craft that once gave Varanasi a global identity is now struggling to preserve its own identity.