Text and photos by Kashif-ul-Huda, TwoCircles.net
hoga koi aisa bhi ke Ghalib ko na jaane
shayar to voh achha hai pe badnaam bahut hai
Will there be any one who doesn’t know Ghalib;
though he is a good poet but ill-reputed.
This is what Mira Asadullah Khan ‘Ghalib’ [1797-1869] said about himself. Known by his pen-name, Ghalib is the most famous Urdu poet of all times. His popularity continues to win him fans from each generation.
Recently in an interview President Barack Obama of the United States said that he reads Urdu poetry. We can safely guess that his reading must include Ghalib proving the challenge of the above quoted sher.
Ghalib’s haveli in Gali Qasim Jan where he spent last years of his life was restored in 2000 and opened to the public. In 2005 I paid a visit to see the courtyard and the walls of what used to be once the home of Urdu’s one of the finest poet. Many of the famous ghazals were penned here.
Though there was heavy hustle and bustle outside, there was no one besides us. Then, I was happy to see a little girl enter the haveli. I was excited to see Ghalib’s popularity extending to even pre-teens but alas! Though that girl apparently lived in the same locality, all she knew was that this was the house of a religious scholar.
ye masayel-e-tasavvuf ye tera bayaan Ghalib
tujhe ham vali samjhte jo na bada-khvaar hota
Ghalib, your talks on the questions of mysticism;
we would have considered you a saint, if not for your drinking wine.
It seemed that Ghalib’s reputation as a saint has finally overtook his ill-reputation.
Photos are from 2005 visit to Ghalib’s haveli.
After renovation of a part of the haveli, it was formally opened in 2000.
Half of the haveli (on right) is not owned by the government.
Haveli itself is nothing but some walls and a large courtyard.
A display with the likeness of Mirza Ghalib
Original walls of the haveli
Seals that Mirza Ghalib used to mark his now famous letters
Ghalib’s favorites:
Wall that divides the two haves of the haveli
Looking outside
To go: