Of lush green hills and early morning booze shops

By Vishnu Makhijani

Gangtok(IANS) : Flying into this Sikkim capital by an Indian Air Force (IAF) helicopter, one is struck by the lush green hillsides that are a soothing balm for the eyes. In fact, such verdant hillsides are a common feature throughout the entire northeastern region and are in sharp contrast to the Himalayas and the lower Aravalli ranges in the north that are almost denuded of forest cover.


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In Sikkim, one would be hard put to locate a barren spot on a mountain. The reason for this is not difficult to find. Forty-four percent of Sikkim is under forest cover, 84 percent of which is under the state forest department.

“The Forest Conservation Act covers any activity in the forests and here, we implement it to the hilt,” an official explained.

And, since corruption is virtually non-existent, there’s no question of forest guards looking the other way as timber mafias flourish.

Is anyone listening? Henceforth, state governments that complain of dwindling forest cover would be hard put to explain why one region in the country has been able to successfully preserve its green cover, while others have abjectly failed.

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Gangtok goes to sleep late but wakes up extremely early – to the extent that some liquor vends raise their shutters at what many would consider the ungodly hour of 6 a.m.

“It’s like this,” explained an elderly shopowner who identified himself as Bhaichung, “many people like a quick swig before heading for work. Thus, while most shops open at around 8.30 a.m., some like mine open at 6 a.m.”

Given this, should it come as a surprise that there are no signs of drunkenness or disorderly behaviour on the streets?

“We are a peaceful people. We know how to drink responsibly,” Bhaichung maintained.

Thus, all of Gangtok is home to innumerable bars, restaurants, cafes and even karaoke bars where countless numbers of young couples can be seen busily imbibing their favourite tipple and nibbling away at a variety of snacks, as a combination of western pop and ethnic music blares away in the background.

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Just how peaceful Sikkim is can be gauged from the fact that in a state with a population of around 350,000, the Central Jail here holds just 60 convicts while 80-odd are being tried for various petty crimes like theft and shoplifting.

This is not to say that it’s all hunky dory and there are no incidents that would attract police action.

“Sure, we have our fights and there are other incidents, but you will rarely hear of anything serious. This is because the police invariably act as facilitators to enable the parties come to a compromise,” explained a Gangtok resident.

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